Rome Food Tours
What is on the plate, and when

The Rome Food Calendar

Rome's eating year is set by the church calendar and the growing season rather than by a festival programme, which is why it is worth planning around: the dates below do not get cancelled. What changes with them is what the fryers are making and which kitchens are open at all.

Before you travel: feast dates that fall on a fixed day are reliable; Carnevale and Easter move each year, and individual kitchens set their own holidays. Check your own dates against the city's official listings, linked at the foot of this page, and book a walk with free cancellation if your plans are still loose.

Winter — the frying months

17 January, Sant'Antonio Abate: the patron saint of animals, and traditionally the day the Roman winter frying season opens. Come this month and you are eating things that are gone by April.

Carnevale: movable, ending on Martedì Grasso in February or early March. The bakery counters fill with frappe — thin strips of fried dough under icing sugar — and castagnole, and they are everywhere for about three weeks and then gone.

It is also the cheapest and quietest time for you to take a tasting walk. The kitchens that turn you away in October will have a table at eight.

19 March: San Giuseppe and the bignè

Saint Joseph's day, and Father's Day in Italy. Roman bakeries make bignè di San Giuseppe for it: choux buns filled with pastry cream and, in the older version, fried rather than baked. They appear for a week or two around the date and are one of the few Roman sweets with a hard calendar, so ask your guide to detour if you are here for it.

Spring — artichoke season and the Roman Easter table

Artichokes run roughly February to May, best in March and April, and the Ghetto's fryers work hardest through them. If carciofo alla giudia is the reason you are coming, this is your window and nothing else will do.

Easter moves, and it brings abbacchio — young lamb, roasted — onto every serious Roman menu, along with the savoury Easter breads. The long weekend closes some family kitchens entirely and fills the rest.

29 June: Santi Pietro e Paolo, Rome's own public holiday

Rome keeps a public holiday for its patron saints that the rest of Italy does not. Shops, businesses and offices close, a procession traditionally goes out at St Paul's Outside the Walls and part of Via Ostiense closes with it.

For you, the consequence is simple: a lot of family-run kitchens are shut and the ones that open are full. A walk with tables booked ahead absorbs that. An unplanned evening leaves you queueing.

August: Ferragosto and the fortnight Rome shuts

15 August is Ferragosto, and around it a great many Roman restaurants close for a fortnight while their families leave the city. August is also the hottest month of the year, with a mean daily maximum of 32.7 °C.

The tours still run. What changes is that the places your guide can take you are the ones that stayed open, and an evening departure stops being a preference and becomes the only sensible thing you can book.

WhenWhatOn the plateWhat it does to a booking
17 JanuarySant'Antonio AbateThe frying season opensQuietest walks of the year
Feb–Mar, movableCarnevaleFrappe, castagnoleBakery stops at their best
19 MarchSan GiuseppeBignè di San GiuseppeWorth asking your guide to detour
February–MayArtichoke seasonCarciofo alla giudiaBook a Ghetto route
Easter, movablePasquaAbbacchio, Easter breadsSome kitchens closed; book ahead
29 JuneSanti Pietro e PaoloCity holiday; many kitchens shut
15 AugustFerragostoFortnight of closures; evening walks only
September–OctoberGrape and olive harvestNew oil, new wineThe best month for a wine-led walk
24 DecemberVigiliaA fish dinner, no meatBook weeks ahead
31 DecemberSan SilvestroLentils and cotechinoSet menus everywhere

Compare every Rome Food tour

Travelling on one of those dates?

Every walk here refunds in full up to 24 hours ahead, so a date that turns out badly costs you nothing.

What each of these dishes actually is, is set out on the Roman food page; which quarter fries which is rione by rione; and the month-by-month temperatures are on the weather page. A food and wine tour rome visitors book for the harvest months is on the Rome Food Tours grid.

Sources, and where to check before you travel

Dates, hours and prices in Rome move. These are the bodies that publish them, and each is worth a second look against the dates you are travelling on.