Rome Food Tours
Know what you are eating

What You Will Eat on a Rome Food Tour

Roman cooking is short. A handful of dishes, most of them built from four or five ingredients, repeated across the city with small and fiercely defended variations. Knowing them before you book turns a list of tastings into a menu you can read.

The four Roman pastas, and what separates them

They come from the same short list of ingredients and the differences between them are precise. Gricia is the base — guanciale and pecorino. Add pepper and egg and you have carbonara; add tomato instead and you have amatriciana; take the pork away and reduce it to cheese and pepper and you have cacio e pepe.

DishThe fatThe cheeseThe restWhere you meet it
Cacio e pepeNonePecorino romanoBlack pepper, pasta waterEverywhere; the Testaccio walk serves all three pastas
GriciaGuancialePecorino romanoBlack pepperThe quiet one; less often on a tasting route
CarbonaraGuancialePecorino romanoEgg yolk, black pepperThe cooking classes teach it by name
AmatricianaGuancialePecorino romanoTomato, chilliThe golf-cart tasting sits you down to it

See the Rome Food tours

Carciofo alla giudia — the artichoke of the Ghetto

What it is: a whole artichoke, trimmed, pressed open until the leaves splay like a flower, and fried twice in olive oil until the outer leaves shatter and the heart stays soft.

Why it only works here: the variety. Carciofo Romanesco del Lazio has held European protected status since 22 November 2002; its central head, the cimarolo or mammola, is spherical, compact, more than ten centimetres across and — the part that matters — spineless.

Season: February to May, best in March and April.

Roman street food you will be handed standing up

Supplì: fried rice croquette with mozzarella in the middle. The test of a good one is the thread of cheese when you break it.

Pizza al taglio: rectangular pizza baked in trays and sold by weight. Point at what you want, say how much, and it is cut and weighed in front of you.

Porchetta: a whole deboned pig, rolled around its own herbs and roasted, sliced cold into a roll. It comes from the hills outside Rome and is sold from counters all over the city.

Trapizzino: the newest thing here by a long way. Invented in Testaccio in 2008 by Stefano Callegari, it is a triangular pocket of pizza-bianca dough filled with a classic Roman braise; the name merges tramezzino and pizza.

Quinto quarto — the fifth quarter, and why Testaccio invented it

When a carcass was divided into four quarters and sold, what was left was the fifth: the offal. Workers at Rome's municipal slaughterhouse in Testaccio were paid partly in it, and the quarter built a cuisine on that. Coda alla vaccinara is oxtail braised with celery; trippa alla romana is tripe in tomato with mint and pecorino.

You will not meet it on every walk. It is a Testaccio speciality above all, and if it is the thing you came for, that is the quarter to book.

What Romans eat at the end

Maritozzo: a soft, slightly sweet bun split and filled with an improbable quantity of whipped cream, eaten at breakfast rather than after dinner.

Tiramisu: not Roman in origin but on nearly every cooking class here, and made in front of you on three of them.

Gelato: how almost every tasting walk finishes. Two operators make "learn to tell the real thing from the fake" an explicit part of what they are selling, which tells you how often visitors get it wrong.

If you do not eat meat, or cannot eat gluten

The listings here are unusually explicit, and unusually negative, about diets — which is more useful than vagueness. Vegetarian options are named on about half of them and almost always need notice at booking, because Roman cooking leans on guanciale and pecorino in places you would not guess.

Vegan and gluten-free are harder. Several cooking classes state outright that they cannot cater for coeliacs or vegans because of what is in the room, while the Frascati class names a vegan menu and offers gluten-free pasta without guaranteeing against cross-contamination. A food and wine tour rome visitors book for the pours is usually easier to adapt than a class. Read the exclusions on the card before you pay.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between carbonara and cacio e pepe?
Guanciale and egg. Cacio e pepe is pecorino and black pepper emulsified with pasta water and nothing else; carbonara adds cured pork jowl and egg yolk to the same base. Order them on consecutive nights and the difference is obvious in a way no description manages.
Is there cream in a Roman carbonara?
No. The sauce is egg yolk, pecorino, pepper and the fat from the guanciale, loosened with pasta water. Any Roman kitchen that added cream would be making something else, and the tasting walks make a point of saying so.
What exactly is a supplì?
A ball of risotto-style rice, usually in a tomato base, with a piece of mozzarella pushed into the middle, breadcrumbed and deep-fried. Break it open and the cheese pulls into a thread — which is where the full name, supplì al telefono, comes from.
When can I eat carciofo alla giudia?
Roughly February to May, with March and April the best weeks. It depends on the Roman artichoke, a protected variety with no thorns and a broad head, and outside its season you will be offered a preserved version or a different dish entirely.
Is Roman food heavy?
Richer than it looks, and served in smaller portions than most visitors expect. A tasting walk that lists ten stops is feeding you a full meal spread thin, which is easier on an appetite than three courses in one sitting.
What should I drink with it?
What the region grows. Lazio's white is Frascati, from the hills southeast of the city, and it goes with almost everything fried; the reds poured on these walks are usually from Lazio or further north. Several fares include the pours, and the card for each says so.

Which quarter serves which of these is set out rione by rione, and the counters where you can buy them without a guide are on markets and counters. Every walk that feeds you them is on the Rome Food Tours grid.

Sources, and where to check before you travel

Dates, hours and prices in Rome move. These are the bodies that publish them, and each is worth a second look against the dates you are travelling on.